How to Grow Moneymaker Tomatoes

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What you’ll need

• Fresh Moneymaker seed
• Seed trays or modules, labels, and clear lid or propagator
• Seed compost and multi-purpose compost
• 9 cm pots for potting on, then final pots or grow bags if container-growing
• Canes or overhead strings, and soft ties or clips
• Tomato fertiliser high in potash
• Mulch (straw, composted bark, or similar)

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Step-by-step timeline

1) Late Feb–April: Sow and germinate

1. Fill clean modules with seed compost and pre-moisten.
2. Sow one seed per cell about 5–8 mm deep.
3. Cover and keep at 18–21°C.
4. Germination usually takes 5–10 days. Move seedlings to bright light immediately to prevent legginess.

Tip: Aim for 14–16 hours of good light. A bright windowsill works if you rotate trays daily.

2) When seedlings have first true leaves: Pot on

1. Transplant gently into 9 cm pots filled with quality compost.
2. Bury stems a little deeper than before to encourage extra roots.
3. Grow on at 15–18°C in maximum light. Do not overwater.

3) Late April–May: Harden off and prepare the bed

1. Harden off for 7–10 days by exposing plants to outdoor conditions a little longer each day.
2. Improve beds with well-rotted compost. Target soil pH 6.0–6.8 and excellent drainage.
3. If growing in containers, use 30–40 cm pots or quality grow bags. Two plants per standard grow bag is ideal for airflow.

4) Mid–late May (greenhouse) or early June (outdoors): Plant out

1. Plant on a warm, settled day once nights are above 10°C.
2. Space at 45 cm along the row with 75–90 cm between rows.
3. Install a 1.8–2 m cane or string per plant and tie in loosely.
4. Water thoroughly, then mulch to hold moisture and limit weeds.

5) June–July: Train, prune and feed

• Cordon training: Keep one main stem. Pinch out side shoots that appear in leaf joints weekly.
• Tie in as the plant grows so the stem is supported but not pinched.
• Feeding: When the first truss (flower cluster) sets tiny fruits, begin a weekly tomato feed high in potash. Increase to twice weekly at peak cropping if growth is pale or weak.
• Watering: Keep compost consistently moist. Water at the base in the morning. Avoid soaking foliage. Irregular watering leads to blossom end rot and fruit splitting.
• Leaf hygiene: Once the first truss has set, remove the lowest leaves that touch soil. Later in summer, remove a few older leaves weekly to improve airflow and light to ripening trusses.

6) Late July–September: Crop steadily and “stop” the plants

• Harvest when fruits are fully coloured and slightly soft to the touch. Pick little and often.
• Stopping: Outdoors, pinch out the growing tip by late August to leave 4–5 trusses to ripen. In a greenhouse, you can allow 5–7 trusses, then pinch out. This focuses the plant on ripening rather than new growth.

7) September–October: Final ripening and clean-down

• Encourage ripening by keeping plants dry at the base, removing a few older leaves, and ensuring good ventilation.
• For green fruit near season’s end, harvest on the vine and ripen indoors in a paper bag with a ripe banana or apple.
• Clear all plant debris after the final pick and rotate away from the same bed for 3–4 years to reduce disease pressure.

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Greenhouse vs outdoors

• Greenhouse: Faster growth and earlier harvests. Ventilate on warm days to avoid humidity build-up and reduce the risk of leaf mould and botrytis. Lightly tap flower trusses at midday to aid pollination.
• Outdoors: Choose the sunniest, most sheltered spot you have. A south-facing wall or a simple cloche makes a big difference. Prioritise airflow to reduce the risk from late blight in damp spells.

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Watering and feeding, made simple

• Water deeply and evenly. In hot spells, daily in a greenhouse and every 1–3 days outdoors depending on soil and pot size.
• Start feeding once fruits set on the first truss. Use a dedicated tomato fertiliser weekly. If leaves yellow between veins or trusses are small, step up to twice weekly during heavy cropping.

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Training and pruning refresher (cordon method)

• Remove side shoots when they are 2–5 cm long.
• Tie in the main stem every 15–20 cm of growth.
• Leaf removal: After the first truss has set, remove the lowest 1–2 leaves. Later, remove a few older leaves weekly, especially any that shade the ripening fruits.
• Stopping: Pinch out the very top of the plant late summer to prioritise ripening.

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Common problems and how to fix them

Late blight (brown patches, rapid collapse in humid weather)

• Improve airflow, grow under cover if you can, water at the base, and remove infected foliage promptly. Moneymaker is not blight-resistant, so prevention and hygiene are key.

Blossom end rot (dark, sunken end on fruits)

• Caused by inconsistent watering leading to poor calcium uptake. Keep moisture even and avoid letting plants swing from dry to soggy.

Fruit splitting

• Happens after heavy watering or rain following dryness. Keep watering steady and use mulch.

Leaf mould or botrytis under cover

• Increase ventilation, space plants properly, and remove affected leaves. Water early in the day at the base only.

Aphids, whitefly, red spider mite

• Encourage beneficial insects outdoors. Under cover, use yellow sticky traps and soft soap sprays as needed. Keep plants well watered and unstressed.

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Harvest, storage and flavour

• Pick fully coloured fruit for the best flavour.
• Store at room temperature and eat within a few days. Chilling dulls flavour.
• For small quantities of green fruit at season’s end, ripen indoors in a paper bag. For a glut of green tomatoes, use in chutneys.

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Companion planting and rotation

• Good companions: Basil, French marigolds (Tagetes), chives.
• Avoid: Planting near potatoes, which share pests and diseases including blight.
• Rotation: Leave 3–4 years before growing tomatoes or other potatoes, peppers, or aubergines in the same ground.

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Outdoor vs container checklist

Beds or borders

• Work in organic matter, stake firmly, mulch, water deeply.

Pots or grow bags

• Use quality compost, two plants per standard grow bag or one per 30–40 cm pot, add a support at planting, and watch watering closely.

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Month-by-month quick planner (UK)

• Feb–Mar: Sow with heat, 18–21°C.
• Apr: Pot on to 9 cm. Harden off late April.
• May: Plant into greenhouse mid-month. Keep outdoors in pots to harden.
• Early Jun: Plant outdoors after risk of frost.
• Jun–Jul: Tie in, remove side shoots, start feeding once first fruits set.
• Aug: Continue feeding. Stop outdoor plants late month.
• Sep: Leaf tidy for airflow and light. Ripen remaining trusses.
• Oct: Finish harvest, clear plants, and rotate.

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FAQs

Is Moneymaker determinate or indeterminate?
Indeterminate. Grow as a cordon and remove side shoots weekly.

How tall will it get?
Typically 1.8–2 m under cover, a little shorter outdoors, so plan strong supports.

How many trusses should I keep?
Outdoors 4–5 trusses is a good target. In a greenhouse you can carry 5–7.

When should I start feeding?
Begin when the first truss sets fruit. Feed weekly with a high-potash tomato fertiliser.

Why are my tomatoes splitting?
Irregular watering. Keep moisture steady, mulch, and avoid drenching after a dry spell.

Can I save seed from Moneymaker?
Yes. It is open-pollinated. Ferment and dry seed from your best fruits, but note there can be cross-pollination if grown near other tomatoes.

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Troubleshooting in one minute

• Leggy seedlings: increase light and reduce heat slightly.
• Pale leaves in mid-season: step up feeding and check watering.
• Poor fruit set in a greenhouse: tap trusses at midday and ventilate to reduce humidity.
• Green shoulders on ripe fruit: remove a few shading leaves to improve light and keep feed balanced.

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Final tips for success

• Give Moneymaker full sun and stable warmth.
• Train a single, well-supported stem and remove side shoots weekly.
• Keep watering consistent and start potash-rich feed as soon as fruits set.
• Improve airflow, especially outdoors in damp summers, and clear debris promptly at season’s end.