fruit
perennial family

Alpine Strawberry

Fragaria vesca

Alpine strawberries produce small, intensely fragrant berries with a flavour that puts supermarket strawberries to shame. Unlike regular strawberries, they don't send out runners — instead forming neat clumps that make excellent edging plants for beds and paths. They fruit continuously from June until the first frosts, producing small handfuls of berries every few days rather than one big glut. They tolerate more shade than regular strawberries and are almost completely unbothered by slugs, probably because of their compact habit. Grow them from seed started indoors in March, or divide established clumps in spring. 'Alexandria' and 'Baron Solemacher' are reliable varieties. They self-seed freely once established, popping up in cracks and borders — a pleasant rather than problematic habit.

Plan where to grow Alpine Strawberry using our vegetable garden planner.

SunlightPartial shade
WateringModerate
Height20cm
Spacing30cm
Germination14–28 days (can be slow and erratic)
Sowing MethodUnder cover
Frost HardinessHardy
Sowing DepthSurface sow (needs light to germinate)

When to Sow Alpine Strawberry

Sow alpine strawberry in March, April, May.

Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Sowing months

Time to Harvest Alpine Strawberry

Expect to harvest approximately 4 months after sowing.

Expected Yield

Small but continuous harvests; around 200–400g per plant across the season.

Common Problems with Alpine Strawberry

Poor germination

Alpine strawberry seeds are slow — be patient (up to 4 weeks). Sow on the surface and keep consistently moist. Use bottom heat.

Birds eating fruit

Net plants or grow in a fruit cage. The small fruits are less targeted than regular strawberries.

Crown rot

Ensure good drainage. Avoid planting too deep — the crown should sit at soil level.

Plan your alpine strawberry in the allotment planner

Drag and drop plants onto your plot and get personalised sowing reminders.

Open Planner

More Fruits

Bramley Apple

Malus domestica 'Bramley's Seedling'

fruit

The Bramley is the definitive British cooking apple, producing large, acidic fruits that collapse into fluffy purée when cooked — perfect for apple crumble, pies, and sauce. It's a vigorous grower that can reach substantial size on standard rootstocks, so for smaller gardens choose trees grafted onto dwarfing rootstock M26 or very dwarfing M9. Bramley is a triploid variety, meaning it needs two other apple trees nearby for pollination (any eating apple flowering at a similar time will do). Plant bare-root trees between November and March while dormant, in a sunny position with well-drained soil. Annual pruning in winter maintains an open, goblet-shaped framework that lets light into the centre of the tree. A mature Bramley on semi-vigorous rootstock can produce prodigious quantities of fruit — you'll need a good recipe for chutney. Store apples in a cool, dark, airy place wrapped individually in newspaper; Bramleys keep well into January.

Full sunModerate350cm

Raspberry

Rubus idaeus

fruit

Raspberries are one of the easiest and most rewarding fruits to grow in the UK, producing abundant harvests with minimal effort once established. Summer-fruiting varieties (like 'Glen Ample' and 'Tulameen') fruit on the previous year's canes in June–July; autumn-fruiting varieties (like 'Autumn Bliss' and 'Polka') fruit on the current year's growth from August to October. Autumn types are easier to manage — simply cut all canes to ground level in February. Summer types require you to remove only the canes that fruited (brown and woody) and tie in the new green canes for next year. Plant bare-root canes between November and March, 40cm apart, along a post-and-wire support system. They prefer slightly acidic soil, rich in organic matter. Net the fruits against birds as they ripen — or share them. A 3-metre row of autumn raspberries provides enough for eating fresh, baking, and freezing.

Full sunModerate150cm

Blueberry

Vaccinium corymbosum

fruit

Blueberries are delicious, packed with antioxidants, and increasingly popular in UK gardens — but they have one non-negotiable requirement: acidic soil with a pH of 4.5–5.5. Unless your garden naturally has acid soil (test it), the easiest approach is to grow blueberries in large pots (at least 40cm diameter) filled with ericaceous compost. Water only with rainwater — tap water in most areas is alkaline and will gradually raise the soil pH, causing the leaves to yellow and the plant to decline. Choose at least two different varieties for better pollination and larger berries. 'Bluecrop' is the most reliable all-rounder; 'Duke' gives early fruits; 'Chandler' produces the largest individual berries. The plants also offer stunning autumn colour, with leaves turning vivid crimson and orange. Net against birds once the berries start to colour. Feed annually with an ericaceous fertiliser in spring.

Full sunModerate150cm

Blackberry

Rubus fruticosus

fruit

Cultivated blackberry varieties produce far larger, sweeter berries than their wild hedgerow cousins, and modern thornless varieties like 'Loch Ness' and 'Oregon Thornless' make picking painless. Train the long, arching canes along a system of horizontal wires attached to posts or a fence. The simplest training method is to tie this year's new canes in one direction and last year's fruiting canes in the other — after fruiting, cut out the old canes and tie the new ones into their place. Blackberries are extremely tolerant of poor soil and partial shade, though they fruit best in sun. They're vigorous growers and need annual pruning to stay manageable. Plant bare-root canes between November and March. The fruits are superb eaten fresh, but also freeze brilliantly and make outstanding jam, crumble, and wine. A single plant trained along a fence will produce more fruit than most families can eat.

Full sunModerate200cm