fruit

Cherry

Prunus avium

Sweet cherries are a luxury fruit that grows surprisingly well in UK gardens, producing glossy, jewel-like fruits in June and July. Modern self-fertile varieties like 'Stella', 'Sunburst', and 'Lapins' have removed the need for planting multiple trees, and dwarfing rootstocks like 'Gisela 5' keep trees to a manageable 2.5–3 metres. Cherries flower early (March–April) and are vulnerable to late frosts — choose a sheltered, south or west-facing position if possible. Birds are the biggest challenge: without netting, you'll lose most of your crop to blackbirds and starlings. Fan-training against a wall makes netting much easier. Prune in summer to reduce the risk of silver leaf and bacterial canker. Cherries dislike heavy, waterlogged soil — good drainage is essential. Harvest when the fruits are fully coloured and come away easily from the stalk. Don't wash until ready to eat; they store for just a few days in the fridge.

Plan where to grow Cherry using our vegetable garden planner.

SunlightFull sun
WateringModerate
Height4.0m
Spacing400cm
GerminationN/A — grown from grafted trees
Sowing MethodDirect sow
Frost HardinessHardy
Sowing DepthKeep graft union above soil level

When to Sow Cherry

Sow cherry in November, December, January, February.

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Sowing months

Time to Harvest Cherry

Expect to harvest approximately 36 months after sowing.

Expected Yield

5–15kg per tree on dwarfing rootstock once mature; protect from birds.

Growing Tips

Usually needs another cherry tree for pollination

Common Problems with Cherry

Bird damage

Birds — particularly blackbirds, starlings, and thrushes — are the single biggest challenge when growing cherries, and will strip every ripe fruit from an unprotected tree within days. Fan-training against a wall makes netting far easier and more effective. Free-standing trees need a complete net cage or large draped netting secured at the base so birds can't get underneath.

Silver leaf disease

Leaves develop a silvery metallic sheen, and affected branches gradually die back. The fungus enters through pruning wounds, so never prune cherries in winter when spores are most prevalent — prune only in summer (June–August) when the tree's natural wound-healing is fastest. Cut out affected branches well below the silvered area and burn the prunings.

Bacterial canker

Sunken, oozing patches of amber-coloured gum appear on the bark, and affected branches wilt and die. More common in wet seasons and on poorly drained soil. Prune out affected wood in summer (not winter), cutting well below the canker, and disinfect tools between cuts. Choose resistant rootstocks and avoid wounding the bark unnecessarily.

Cherry blackfly

Leaves at the shoot tips curl tightly inwards, becoming sticky with honeydew and infested with dense colonies of black aphids. The damage is unsightly but rarely fatal. Squash colonies by hand in spring before the leaves curl too tightly to reach the aphids inside, or apply a soap-based spray. Encourage natural predators like ladybirds and lacewings.

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Fragaria vesca

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