tree
perennial family

Crab Apple

Malus sylvestris

Crab apples are among the most ornamental and useful small trees for UK gardens, providing four seasons of interest: beautiful blossom in April and May, attractive foliage in summer, colourful fruits from September, and elegant bare branching structure in winter. They're also outstanding pollinators for eating apple varieties — a single crab apple can pollinate most dessert and cooking apples within a 50-metre radius. The fruits, though too tart for eating raw, make exceptional jelly (high in pectin, so sets easily), are wonderful added to apple pies and chutneys, and can be used for crab apple wine. 'John Downie' is widely considered the best for jelly-making, with large, attractive, red-and-yellow fruits and profuse white blossom. 'Evereste' has orange-red fruits that persist well into winter, providing food for birds. 'Royal Beauty' is a weeping variety with deep pink flowers and dark red fruits. Malus × robusta 'Red Sentinel' holds its glossy red fruits right through to March — the last tree to be stripped by birds. Crab apples grow in any reasonable soil, tolerate some shade (though flower better in sun), and need minimal pruning — just remove dead or crossing branches in winter. They're fully hardy across the UK and can be grown as standard trees, half-standards, or even trained as espaliers.

Plan where to grow Crab Apple using our vegetable garden planner.

SunlightFull sun
WateringLow
Height6.0m
Spacing400cm
GerminationN/A — grown from grafted bare-root or container trees
Sowing MethodDirect sow
Frost HardinessHardy
Sowing DepthPlant with graft union 10cm above soil level

When to Sow Crab Apple

Sow crab apple in November, December, January, February, March.

Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Sowing months

Time to Harvest Crab Apple

Expect to harvest approximately 36 months after sowing.

Companion Plants

Expected Yield

A mature tree produces 10–30kg of fruit. Makes outstanding jelly and crab apple wine. Pollinates nearby apple trees.

Growing Tips

Excellent pollinator for eating apples; fruits make superb jelly

Common Problems with Crab Apple

Apple scab

Dark, scabby spots on leaves and fruits, causing early leaf drop and cracked, distorted fruit. Worst in wet springs and crowded conditions. Rake up and destroy fallen leaves in autumn to break the cycle. Choose scab-resistant varieties like 'Evereste' (excellent resistance). Improve air circulation by thinning crowded branches.

Fireblight

Shoots wilt suddenly, turning brown or black as if scorched, and may ooze bacterial slime. A notifiable disease in the UK. Cut out affected branches at least 30cm below the infection, disinfecting tools between cuts. Destroy removed material — do not compost. Report confirmed cases to APHA (Animal and Plant Health Agency).

Woolly aphid

White, waxy, cotton-wool-like patches on branches and around pruning wounds, covering dense colonies of aphids. While unsightly, woolly aphid is rarely seriously harmful to an established tree. Scrub off with a stiff brush, or spray with organic soap-based insecticide. The parasitic wasp Aphelinus mali provides natural control in many areas.

Plan your crab apple in the allotment planner

Drag and drop plants onto your plot and get personalised sowing reminders.

Open Planner

More Trees

Magnolia

Magnolia spp.

tree

Magnolias are among the most spectacular flowering trees, producing large, sculptural blooms in shades of white, pink, and purple, often before the leaves appear in spring. The effect of a magnolia in full bloom is breathtaking — it's one of the great sights in the British garden. However, the early flowers are vulnerable to late frost, so choose a sheltered, north or west-facing position where the buds won't be damaged by early morning sun on frosty mornings (rapid thawing causes more damage than the frost itself). M. stellata is the best choice for smaller gardens — compact, slow-growing, and reliably flowering. M. × soulangeana is the classic large garden magnolia with goblet-shaped pink-and-white flowers. They prefer neutral to acid soil and dislike chalk. Magnolias resent pruning and have fleshy roots that dislike disturbance, so plant in their permanent position as young as possible. They're slow to establish but worth every year of patience.

Full sunModerate600cm

Willow

Salix spp.

tree

Willows are fast-growing, moisture-loving trees that bring movement, sound, and grace to the garden as their branches sway in the breeze. The classic weeping willow (S. × sepulcralis 'Chrysocoma') is magnificent but far too large for most gardens — it reaches 15–20 metres and its roots aggressively seek out drains and foundations. For smaller spaces, consider S. caprea 'Kilmarnock' (a compact weeping form on a 2m stem) or shrubby willows grown for their colourful winter stems (S. alba 'Britzensis' for orange-red, or S. alba vitellina for golden yellow). These ornamental-stemmed types are coppiced hard in spring, cut to ground level every 1–2 years, which produces the brightest coloured young growth. Willows root extraordinarily easily from cuttings — push a 30cm-long stem into moist ground and it will grow. This makes them excellent for living structures: weaving willow screens, tunnels, and fedges. All willows need moist soil; they're ideal for damp areas of the garden where other trees might struggle.

Full sunHigh800cm

Eucalyptus

Eucalyptus gunnii

tree

Eucalyptus gunnii (cider gum) is the hardiest eucalyptus species commonly grown in the UK, tolerating temperatures down to -15°C once established. Its round, silver-blue juvenile leaves are hugely popular in flower arranging, and the aromatic foliage releases a clean, medicinal scent when crushed. Left unpruned, it grows rapidly into a tall tree (10–15 metres or more), but it responds brilliantly to coppicing — cut to near ground level each spring, it regrows with a constant supply of the prized juvenile foliage on manageable stems. This also prevents the less attractive elongated adult leaves from forming. Young trees need staking, as the combination of a shallow root system and top-heavy canopy makes them vulnerable to wind rock. They prefer well-drained, neutral to slightly acidic soil and a sheltered position, especially in their first few winters. The peeling bark on mature trunks is attractive in its own right. Be aware that eucalyptus leaves contain oils that can suppress the growth of nearby plants — avoid planting too close to vegetable beds.

Full sunModerate1000cm

Cherry Blossom

Prunus spp.

tree

Ornamental cherry trees produce the most spectacular spring displays in the British landscape — their branches smothered in clouds of pink or white blossom that last for 2–3 magical weeks. 'Kanzan' is the classic avenue cherry with double pink flowers; 'Yoshino' (Prunus × yedoensis) is the ethereal pale pink variety of Japanese hanami festivals; 'Tai-Haku' (Great White Cherry) has the largest flowers of any cherry. For smaller gardens, 'Amanogawa' is a narrow, columnar variety that fits into the tightest spaces. Most ornamental cherries are relatively small trees (6–10 metres) and grow well in any reasonable soil. Plant bare-root trees between November and March. They need minimal pruning — in fact, avoid pruning if possible, as cherries are susceptible to silver leaf disease and bacterial canker entering through wounds. If pruning is essential, do it in midsummer when the risk of infection is lowest. Some varieties also offer good autumn colour and attractive bark.

Full sunModerate800cm