Fig
Ficus carica
Figs can be grown successfully outdoors across much of the UK, and there's nothing quite like picking a sun-warmed, ripe fig from your own tree. The key to fruiting in the UK is understanding the fig's unusual cropping cycle: tiny embryo figs form at the shoot tips in autumn and overwinter to develop and ripen the following summer (August–September). Any larger figs present in autumn should be removed — they won't survive the winter and waste the tree's energy. The single most important thing for UK fig growing is to restrict the roots. Plant in a sunken container (a dustbin with drainage holes) or build a brick-lined planting pit 60cm × 60cm × 60cm. Without root restriction, figs produce masses of lush foliage but very little fruit. Plant against a south or south-west facing wall for maximum warmth, in well-drained soil. Water container-grown figs regularly in summer but reduce watering in autumn. 'Brown Turkey' is the most reliable variety for UK outdoor growing — it's hardy to -10°C and produces sweet, brownish-purple fruits. 'Brunswick' is another good choice for cooler areas. Protect embryo figs over winter with horticultural fleece in cold regions. Prune in spring to maintain shape and remove any frost-damaged shoots.
When to Sow Fig
Sow fig in March, April, November.
Time to Harvest Fig
Expect to harvest approximately 18 months after sowing.
Companion Plants
Expected Yield
20–50 figs per tree when root-restricted. Ripen August to September. 'Brown Turkey' most reliable.
Growing Tips
Restrict roots for fruit production; grow against a south-facing wall
Common Problems with Fig
Lots of leaves but no fruit
Almost always caused by unrestricted roots. Figs are naturally vigorous trees that channel all energy into growth when roots are free. Restrict roots in a sunken container or lined pit 60cm cubed. Also ensure the tree gets maximum sun — a south-facing wall is ideal.
Embryo figs killed by frost
The tiny, pea-sized figs that form at shoot tips in autumn are next year's crop. Hard frost kills them, resulting in no harvest. In cold areas, wrap the branch tips in fleece or hessian from November to March. Wall-grown trees benefit from the thermal mass of the wall.
Coral spot fungus
Raised, orange-pink spots on dead or dying wood. Prune out all affected branches well below the infection into healthy tissue. Disinfect secateurs between cuts. Avoid leaving dead wood on the tree, as coral spot is a wound pathogen. Pruning is best done in spring to minimise infection risk.
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Alpine Strawberry
Fragaria vesca
Alpine strawberries produce small, intensely fragrant berries with a flavour that puts supermarket strawberries to shame. Unlike regular strawberries, they don't send out runners — instead forming neat clumps that make excellent edging plants for beds and paths. They fruit continuously from June until the first frosts, producing small handfuls of berries every few days rather than one big glut. They tolerate more shade than regular strawberries and are almost completely unbothered by slugs, probably because of their compact habit. Grow them from seed started indoors in March, or divide established clumps in spring. 'Alexandria' and 'Baron Solemacher' are reliable varieties. They self-seed freely once established, popping up in cracks and borders — a pleasant rather than problematic habit.
Bramley Apple
Malus domestica 'Bramley's Seedling'
The Bramley is the definitive British cooking apple, producing large, acidic fruits that collapse into fluffy purée when cooked — perfect for apple crumble, pies, and sauce. It's a vigorous grower that can reach substantial size on standard rootstocks, so for smaller gardens choose trees grafted onto dwarfing rootstock M26 or very dwarfing M9. Bramley is a triploid variety, meaning it needs two other apple trees nearby for pollination (any eating apple flowering at a similar time will do). Plant bare-root trees between November and March while dormant, in a sunny position with well-drained soil. Annual pruning in winter maintains an open, goblet-shaped framework that lets light into the centre of the tree. A mature Bramley on semi-vigorous rootstock can produce prodigious quantities of fruit — you'll need a good recipe for chutney. Store apples in a cool, dark, airy place wrapped individually in newspaper; Bramleys keep well into January.
Raspberry
Rubus idaeus
Raspberries are one of the easiest and most rewarding fruits to grow in the UK, producing abundant harvests with minimal effort once established. Summer-fruiting varieties (like 'Glen Ample' and 'Tulameen') fruit on the previous year's canes in June–July; autumn-fruiting varieties (like 'Autumn Bliss' and 'Polka') fruit on the current year's growth from August to October. Autumn types are easier to manage — simply cut all canes to ground level in February. Summer types require you to remove only the canes that fruited (brown and woody) and tie in the new green canes for next year. Plant bare-root canes between November and March, 40cm apart, along a post-and-wire support system. They prefer slightly acidic soil, rich in organic matter. Net the fruits against birds as they ripen — or share them. A 3-metre row of autumn raspberries provides enough for eating fresh, baking, and freezing.
Blueberry
Vaccinium corymbosum
Blueberries are delicious, packed with antioxidants, and increasingly popular in UK gardens — but they have one non-negotiable requirement: acidic soil with a pH of 4.5–5.5. Unless your garden naturally has acid soil (test it), the easiest approach is to grow blueberries in large pots (at least 40cm diameter) filled with ericaceous compost. Water only with rainwater — tap water in most areas is alkaline and will gradually raise the soil pH, causing the leaves to yellow and the plant to decline. Choose at least two different varieties for better pollination and larger berries. 'Bluecrop' is the most reliable all-rounder; 'Duke' gives early fruits; 'Chandler' produces the largest individual berries. The plants also offer stunning autumn colour, with leaves turning vivid crimson and orange. Net against birds once the berries start to colour. Feed annually with an ericaceous fertiliser in spring.