Garden Pea
Pisum sativum
There are few greater pleasures in the allotment than eating fresh peas straight from the pod — the sugars start converting to starch the moment they're picked, which is why home-grown peas taste incomparably better than shop-bought. Sow directly into the soil in flat-bottomed trenches, spacing seeds 5–8cm apart. Most varieties need support — use pea sticks (twiggy branches), netting, or trellis. Dwarf varieties like 'Kelvedon Wonder' (60cm) need minimal support and are good for smaller spaces. For a longer season, make successional sowings from March to June and again in September for an autumn crop. Pick regularly to encourage continued pod production. Peas fix nitrogen in the soil through root nodules, enriching it for the next crop — leave the roots in the ground after cropping. Mange tout and sugar snap types are eaten pod and all, and are often more productive than shelling peas.
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When to Sow Garden Pea
Sow garden pea in March, April, May, September, October.
Time to Harvest Garden Pea
Expect to harvest approximately 3 months after sowing.
Companion Plants
Expected Yield
Around 3–5kg of pods per 3m row; roughly 1kg of shelled peas from 3kg of pods.
Growing Tips
Provide support for climbing
Common Problems with Garden Pea
Pea moth
Small caterpillars inside the pods eating the developing peas — discovered at harvest when you open the pod. The adult moth lays eggs during flowering (typically June–July). Cover plants with fine mesh during flowering to exclude the moths, or time sowings to avoid peak moth activity: very early (February–March) or late (July–August) sowings are rarely affected.
Powdery mildew
A white powdery coating on leaves that's particularly common in late summer on stressed plants. Keep the roots consistently moist (peas are shallow-rooted and suffer quickly in dry spells), mulch around the base to retain moisture, and choose mildew-resistant varieties. Severe mildew shortens the cropping season but rarely ruins existing pods.
Mice eating seeds
Mice dig up and eat freshly sown pea seeds — sometimes entire rows disappear overnight. Start peas in pots or lengths of guttering indoors and transplant when well-rooted, or lay fine wire mesh (chicken wire) over the row immediately after sowing and leave it until seedlings are well established. Soaking seeds in paraffin before sowing is a traditional deterrent.
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Cherry Tomato
Solanum lycopersicum var. cerasiforme
Cherry tomatoes are one of the most rewarding crops for UK allotment growers. These small, sweet fruits ripen reliably even in cooler summers, producing heavy trusses from July right through to October. They thrive in grow bags, pots, or directly in the ground, making them versatile for any plot size. Pinch out side shoots regularly on cordon varieties to channel energy into fruit production. Bush varieties like 'Tumbling Tom' need no training and work brilliantly in hanging baskets. Feed weekly with a high-potash tomato feed once the first fruits set. The key to great flavour is letting them ripen fully on the vine rather than picking early.
Beefsteak Tomato
Solanum lycopersicum
Beefsteak tomatoes produce the large, meaty fruits that are perfect for slicing into sandwiches and burgers. They need a long growing season in the UK, so starting seeds early under cover is essential. These are almost always grown as cordons — train them up a single stem, removing side shoots weekly. Each truss produces fewer but much larger fruits than cherry types, often weighing 200–500g each. They benefit from greenhouse growing in cooler regions, though sheltered outdoor spots in the south can produce good results. Consistent watering is critical; irregular watering causes blossom end rot and fruit splitting. Stop the plant at 4–5 trusses to ensure fruits ripen before autumn.
Nantes Carrot
Daucus carota
Nantes carrots are the gold standard for flavour — sweet, crisp, and cylindrical with a smooth skin that barely needs peeling. They perform well in most UK soils but prefer light, stone-free ground to grow straight. If your soil is heavy clay, grow them in raised beds or deep containers filled with sandy compost. Sow thinly to avoid the need for heavy thinning, which attracts carrot fly. Cover rows with fine mesh or enviromesh as a physical barrier against carrot fly — this is far more reliable than companion planting alone. Successional sowing from March to July gives you carrots from June through to winter. Late sowings can be left in the ground over winter under a thick mulch of straw.
Butterhead Lettuce
Lactuca sativa
Butterhead lettuce produces soft, rounded heads with tender, buttery-textured leaves that melt in the mouth. It's one of the quickest salad crops to grow — ready in as little as 8 weeks from sowing. Unlike iceberg types, butterheads tolerate partial shade and are less likely to bolt in warm spells. Sow small batches every 2–3 weeks from March to September for a continuous supply. They work well as an intercrop between slower-growing vegetables like brassicas and leeks. Water consistently but avoid wetting the leaves to reduce the risk of grey mould. 'All the Year Round' is the classic UK variety and lives up to its name, performing well in almost every season.