Hornbeam

Magnolias are among the most spectacular flowering trees, producing large, sculptural blooms in shades of white, pink, and purple, often before the leaves appear in spring. The effect of a magnolia in full bloom is breathtaking — it's one of the great sights in the British garden. However, the early flowers are vulnerable to late frost, so choose a sheltered, north or west-facing position where the buds won't be damaged by early morning sun on frosty mornings (rapid thawing causes more damage than the frost itself). M. stellata is the best choice for smaller gardens — compact, slow-growing, and reliably flowering. M. × soulangeana is the classic large garden magnolia with goblet-shaped pink-and-white flowers. They prefer neutral to acid soil and dislike chalk. Magnolias resent pruning and have fleshy roots that dislike disturbance, so plant in their permanent position as young as possible. They're slow to establish but worth every year of patience.

Willows are fast-growing, moisture-loving trees that bring movement, sound, and grace to the garden as their branches sway in the breeze. The classic weeping willow (S. × sepulcralis 'Chrysocoma') is magnificent but far too large for most gardens — it reaches 15–20 metres and its roots aggressively seek out drains and foundations. For smaller spaces, consider S. caprea 'Kilmarnock' (a compact weeping form on a 2m stem) or shrubby willows grown for their colourful winter stems (S. alba 'Britzensis' for orange-red, or S. alba vitellina for golden yellow). These ornamental-stemmed types are coppiced hard in spring, cut to ground level every 1–2 years, which produces the brightest coloured young growth. Willows root extraordinarily easily from cuttings — push a 30cm-long stem into moist ground and it will grow. This makes them excellent for living structures: weaving willow screens, tunnels, and fedges. All willows need moist soil; they're ideal for damp areas of the garden where other trees might struggle.

Eucalyptus gunnii (cider gum) is the hardiest eucalyptus species commonly grown in the UK, tolerating temperatures down to -15°C once established. Its round, silver-blue juvenile leaves are hugely popular in flower arranging, and the aromatic foliage releases a clean, medicinal scent when crushed. Left unpruned, it grows rapidly into a tall tree (10–15 metres or more), but it responds brilliantly to coppicing — cut to near ground level each spring, it regrows with a constant supply of the prized juvenile foliage on manageable stems. This also prevents the less attractive elongated adult leaves from forming. Young trees need staking, as the combination of a shallow root system and top-heavy canopy makes them vulnerable to wind rock. They prefer well-drained, neutral to slightly acidic soil and a sheltered position, especially in their first few winters. The peeling bark on mature trunks is attractive in its own right. Be aware that eucalyptus leaves contain oils that can suppress the growth of nearby plants — avoid planting too close to vegetable beds.

Ornamental cherry trees produce the most spectacular spring displays in the British landscape — their branches smothered in clouds of pink or white blossom that last for 2–3 magical weeks. 'Kanzan' is the classic avenue cherry with double pink flowers; 'Yoshino' (Prunus × yedoensis) is the ethereal pale pink variety of Japanese hanami festivals; 'Tai-Haku' (Great White Cherry) has the largest flowers of any cherry. For smaller gardens, 'Amanogawa' is a narrow, columnar variety that fits into the tightest spaces. Most ornamental cherries are relatively small trees (6–10 metres) and grow well in any reasonable soil. Plant bare-root trees between November and March. They need minimal pruning — in fact, avoid pruning if possible, as cherries are susceptible to silver leaf disease and bacterial canker entering through wounds. If pruning is essential, do it in midsummer when the risk of infection is lowest. Some varieties also offer good autumn colour and attractive bark.