Kale
Brassica oleracea var. sabellica
Kale is the hardiest of all brassicas, standing through the worst of British winters without flinching. Its reputation as a 'superfood' is well deserved — it's packed with vitamins, iron, and antioxidants. 'Nero di Toscana' (cavolo nero) produces long, dark, crinkled leaves that are superb in Italian dishes and stir-fries. 'Dwarf Green Curled' is the traditional British variety, compact and intensely flavoured. 'Red Russian' has pretty purple-veined leaves and is one of the tenderest varieties. Harvest by picking a few leaves from each plant rather than stripping it — the plant will keep producing new growth from the top. Kale's flavour improves markedly after frost, becoming sweeter and less bitter. It's one of the few crops you can sow from March right through to July and still get a useful harvest. Unlike other brassicas, its open habit means whitefly is less of a problem.
When to Sow Kale
Sow kale in March, April, May, June, July.
Time to Harvest Kale
Expect to harvest approximately 2 months after sowing.
Companion Plants
Expected Yield
Pick-and-come-again cropping; each plant provides several kg of leaves over winter.
Common Problems with Kale
Caterpillars
Cabbage white butterfly caterpillars can strip kale leaves to bare stalks within days. Cover plants with fine mesh netting immediately after planting and keep it in place from May to October. Check leaf undersides regularly for clusters of yellow eggs and squash or remove them before they hatch. Picking off individual caterpillars by hand is effective on a small scale.
Whitefly
Tiny white flies cluster on leaf undersides, particularly on overwintering kale, sucking sap and producing sticky honeydew. Blast off with a strong jet of water from the hose — this is surprisingly effective when repeated every few days. Yellow sticky traps hung among the plants help monitor and reduce numbers. Cold weather naturally reduces whitefly populations.
Aphids
Grey-green mealy aphids can build up on kale leaves, particularly in the sheltered heart of the plant where they're hard to spot. Wash off with a strong spray of water, or use a diluted washing-up liquid spray. Encouraging natural predators like ladybirds, hoverfly larvae, and lacewings is the best long-term solution — avoid broad-spectrum insecticides that kill these beneficial insects.
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Cherry Tomato
Solanum lycopersicum var. cerasiforme
Cherry tomatoes are one of the most rewarding crops for UK allotment growers. These small, sweet fruits ripen reliably even in cooler summers, producing heavy trusses from July right through to October. They thrive in grow bags, pots, or directly in the ground, making them versatile for any plot size. Pinch out side shoots regularly on cordon varieties to channel energy into fruit production. Bush varieties like 'Tumbling Tom' need no training and work brilliantly in hanging baskets. Feed weekly with a high-potash tomato feed once the first fruits set. The key to great flavour is letting them ripen fully on the vine rather than picking early.
Beefsteak Tomato
Solanum lycopersicum
Beefsteak tomatoes produce the large, meaty fruits that are perfect for slicing into sandwiches and burgers. They need a long growing season in the UK, so starting seeds early under cover is essential. These are almost always grown as cordons — train them up a single stem, removing side shoots weekly. Each truss produces fewer but much larger fruits than cherry types, often weighing 200–500g each. They benefit from greenhouse growing in cooler regions, though sheltered outdoor spots in the south can produce good results. Consistent watering is critical; irregular watering causes blossom end rot and fruit splitting. Stop the plant at 4–5 trusses to ensure fruits ripen before autumn.
Nantes Carrot
Daucus carota
Nantes carrots are the gold standard for flavour — sweet, crisp, and cylindrical with a smooth skin that barely needs peeling. They perform well in most UK soils but prefer light, stone-free ground to grow straight. If your soil is heavy clay, grow them in raised beds or deep containers filled with sandy compost. Sow thinly to avoid the need for heavy thinning, which attracts carrot fly. Cover rows with fine mesh or enviromesh as a physical barrier against carrot fly — this is far more reliable than companion planting alone. Successional sowing from March to July gives you carrots from June through to winter. Late sowings can be left in the ground over winter under a thick mulch of straw.
Butterhead Lettuce
Lactuca sativa
Butterhead lettuce produces soft, rounded heads with tender, buttery-textured leaves that melt in the mouth. It's one of the quickest salad crops to grow — ready in as little as 8 weeks from sowing. Unlike iceberg types, butterheads tolerate partial shade and are less likely to bolt in warm spells. Sow small batches every 2–3 weeks from March to September for a continuous supply. They work well as an intercrop between slower-growing vegetables like brassicas and leeks. Water consistently but avoid wetting the leaves to reduce the risk of grey mould. 'All the Year Round' is the classic UK variety and lives up to its name, performing well in almost every season.