Redcurrant
Ribes rubrum
Redcurrants produce jewel-like clusters of translucent red berries in July — beautiful as well as delicious. Their tart, bright flavour makes outstanding jelly (the classic accompaniment to lamb), and they're lovely in summer puddings, tarts, and sauces. Unlike blackcurrants, redcurrants fruit on old wood and are pruned like gooseberries — as an open framework of permanent branches. They train beautifully as cordons or fans against walls, including north-facing walls, which is useful for making the most of limited sunny space. 'Jonkheer van Tets' is an early, heavy-cropping variety; 'Rovada' produces the largest berries. Redcurrants are relatively low-maintenance — feed with potassium-rich fertiliser in spring, mulch to retain moisture, and net against birds. The main pest is gooseberry sawfly caterpillars (they attack all Ribes species). A mature cordon takes very little space and produces 1–2kg of fruit per year.
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When to Sow Redcurrant
Sow redcurrant in November, December, January, February.
Time to Harvest Redcurrant
Expect to harvest approximately 18 months after sowing.
Expected Yield
2–4kg per bush; 1–2kg per cordon. Fruits keep well frozen.
Common Problems with Redcurrant
Gooseberry sawfly
Caterpillars of the gooseberry sawfly strip the leaves from all Ribes species (redcurrants, gooseberries, blackcurrants). They work from the centre of the bush outwards, so damage can go unnoticed until severe. Check the undersides of leaves and the bush interior from April onwards and pick off caterpillars immediately on sight — they can defoliate a bush within days.
Birds
Birds will strip ripe redcurrants quickly. Net bushes as the berries start to colour — cordons trained against walls are particularly easy to net effectively. Alternatively, grow inside a fruit cage for year-round protection.
Coral spot
Bright orange raised spots on dead wood caused by the fungus Nectria cinnabarina, which can spread to living tissue if left unchecked. Prune out all dead branches promptly with clean, sharp secateurs and disinfect your tools between cuts to prevent spreading the fungus to healthy wood.
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Alpine Strawberry
Fragaria vesca
Alpine strawberries produce small, intensely fragrant berries with a flavour that puts supermarket strawberries to shame. Unlike regular strawberries, they don't send out runners — instead forming neat clumps that make excellent edging plants for beds and paths. They fruit continuously from June until the first frosts, producing small handfuls of berries every few days rather than one big glut. They tolerate more shade than regular strawberries and are almost completely unbothered by slugs, probably because of their compact habit. Grow them from seed started indoors in March, or divide established clumps in spring. 'Alexandria' and 'Baron Solemacher' are reliable varieties. They self-seed freely once established, popping up in cracks and borders — a pleasant rather than problematic habit.
Bramley Apple
Malus domestica 'Bramley's Seedling'
The Bramley is the definitive British cooking apple, producing large, acidic fruits that collapse into fluffy purée when cooked — perfect for apple crumble, pies, and sauce. It's a vigorous grower that can reach substantial size on standard rootstocks, so for smaller gardens choose trees grafted onto dwarfing rootstock M26 or very dwarfing M9. Bramley is a triploid variety, meaning it needs two other apple trees nearby for pollination (any eating apple flowering at a similar time will do). Plant bare-root trees between November and March while dormant, in a sunny position with well-drained soil. Annual pruning in winter maintains an open, goblet-shaped framework that lets light into the centre of the tree. A mature Bramley on semi-vigorous rootstock can produce prodigious quantities of fruit — you'll need a good recipe for chutney. Store apples in a cool, dark, airy place wrapped individually in newspaper; Bramleys keep well into January.
Raspberry
Rubus idaeus
Raspberries are one of the easiest and most rewarding fruits to grow in the UK, producing abundant harvests with minimal effort once established. Summer-fruiting varieties (like 'Glen Ample' and 'Tulameen') fruit on the previous year's canes in June–July; autumn-fruiting varieties (like 'Autumn Bliss' and 'Polka') fruit on the current year's growth from August to October. Autumn types are easier to manage — simply cut all canes to ground level in February. Summer types require you to remove only the canes that fruited (brown and woody) and tie in the new green canes for next year. Plant bare-root canes between November and March, 40cm apart, along a post-and-wire support system. They prefer slightly acidic soil, rich in organic matter. Net the fruits against birds as they ripen — or share them. A 3-metre row of autumn raspberries provides enough for eating fresh, baking, and freezing.
Blueberry
Vaccinium corymbosum
Blueberries are delicious, packed with antioxidants, and increasingly popular in UK gardens — but they have one non-negotiable requirement: acidic soil with a pH of 4.5–5.5. Unless your garden naturally has acid soil (test it), the easiest approach is to grow blueberries in large pots (at least 40cm diameter) filled with ericaceous compost. Water only with rainwater — tap water in most areas is alkaline and will gradually raise the soil pH, causing the leaves to yellow and the plant to decline. Choose at least two different varieties for better pollination and larger berries. 'Bluecrop' is the most reliable all-rounder; 'Duke' gives early fruits; 'Chandler' produces the largest individual berries. The plants also offer stunning autumn colour, with leaves turning vivid crimson and orange. Net against birds once the berries start to colour. Feed annually with an ericaceous fertiliser in spring.