Runner Bean
Phaseolus coccineus
Runner beans are one of the most productive and rewarding crops for UK allotments, producing heavy yields of long, flat-podded beans from July to October. They're also highly ornamental — the scarlet, white, or bicoloured flowers are attractive to bees and hummingbird hawk-moths, making them a dual-purpose crop. Traditional varieties like 'Scarlet Emperor' and 'Enorma' produce red flowers and long, tender pods, while 'White Lady' has white flowers and is said to set pods more reliably in hot weather. Grow them up a wigwam of 2.4m canes, a row of crossed canes, or along a fence or trellis. Sow seeds directly outdoors after the last frost (late May in most of the UK), or start indoors in late April for an earlier crop. Plant two seeds per cane, 5cm deep. They need rich, moisture-retentive soil — the traditional runner bean trench, dug in winter and filled with kitchen waste and compost, provides ideal conditions. Water copiously once flowering begins, as dry roots cause flowers to drop without setting pods. Pick pods regularly when 15–20cm long to keep the plants producing; any pods left to mature will signal the plant to stop flowering.
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When to Sow Runner Bean
Sow runner bean in April, May, June.
Time to Harvest Runner Bean
Expect to harvest approximately 3 months after sowing.
Companion Plants
Expected Yield
Each plant can produce 2–3kg of pods over the season; a 2.4m double row of 20 plants yields enough for a family.
Growing Tips
Pick regularly to keep plants producing
Common Problems with Runner Bean
Flowers dropping without setting pods
The most common frustration with runner beans. Caused by dry roots, hot temperatures above 30°C, or lack of pollinating insects. Water deeply and consistently once flowering starts — dry soil is the primary cause. Mist flowers in the morning during hot spells. 'White Lady' and 'Moonlight' set pods more reliably in heat.
Black bean aphid (blackfly)
Dense colonies of black aphids cluster on shoot tips and stems, weakening plants and causing distorted growth. Pinch out the growing tips once plants reach the top of their support — this removes the aphids' favourite feeding site and encourages side shoots. Spray severe infestations with organic soap-based insecticide.
Halo blight
Dark spots surrounded by a yellow halo appear on leaves, and greasy-looking spots on pods. A seed-borne bacterial disease worst in wet seasons. Remove and destroy affected plants. Buy certified disease-free seed, rotate crops, and avoid working among wet plants which spreads the bacteria.
Related guides
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Cherry Tomato
Solanum lycopersicum var. cerasiforme
Cherry tomatoes are one of the most rewarding crops for UK allotment growers. These small, sweet fruits ripen reliably even in cooler summers, producing heavy trusses from July right through to October. They thrive in grow bags, pots, or directly in the ground, making them versatile for any plot size. Pinch out side shoots regularly on cordon varieties to channel energy into fruit production. Bush varieties like 'Tumbling Tom' need no training and work brilliantly in hanging baskets. Feed weekly with a high-potash tomato feed once the first fruits set. The key to great flavour is letting them ripen fully on the vine rather than picking early.
Beefsteak Tomato
Solanum lycopersicum
Beefsteak tomatoes produce the large, meaty fruits that are perfect for slicing into sandwiches and burgers. They need a long growing season in the UK, so starting seeds early under cover is essential. These are almost always grown as cordons — train them up a single stem, removing side shoots weekly. Each truss produces fewer but much larger fruits than cherry types, often weighing 200–500g each. They benefit from greenhouse growing in cooler regions, though sheltered outdoor spots in the south can produce good results. Consistent watering is critical; irregular watering causes blossom end rot and fruit splitting. Stop the plant at 4–5 trusses to ensure fruits ripen before autumn.
Nantes Carrot
Daucus carota
Nantes carrots are the gold standard for flavour — sweet, crisp, and cylindrical with a smooth skin that barely needs peeling. They perform well in most UK soils but prefer light, stone-free ground to grow straight. If your soil is heavy clay, grow them in raised beds or deep containers filled with sandy compost. Sow thinly to avoid the need for heavy thinning, which attracts carrot fly. Cover rows with fine mesh or enviromesh as a physical barrier against carrot fly — this is far more reliable than companion planting alone. Successional sowing from March to July gives you carrots from June through to winter. Late sowings can be left in the ground over winter under a thick mulch of straw.
Butterhead Lettuce
Lactuca sativa
Butterhead lettuce produces soft, rounded heads with tender, buttery-textured leaves that melt in the mouth. It's one of the quickest salad crops to grow — ready in as little as 8 weeks from sowing. Unlike iceberg types, butterheads tolerate partial shade and are less likely to bolt in warm spells. Sow small batches every 2–3 weeks from March to September for a continuous supply. They work well as an intercrop between slower-growing vegetables like brassicas and leeks. Water consistently but avoid wetting the leaves to reduce the risk of grey mould. 'All the Year Round' is the classic UK variety and lives up to its name, performing well in almost every season.