Sorrel
Rumex acetosa
Sorrel is a hardy, low-maintenance perennial herb with a distinctive, sharp, lemony tang that adds a wonderful zing to salads, soups, sauces, and omelettes. French sorrel (Rumex scutatus) has smaller, milder leaves and a more refined flavour; common sorrel (Rumex acetosa) is larger, more vigorous, and sharper in taste. Both are among the earliest leafy crops to appear in spring, often producing usable leaves by March — invaluable in the hungry gap when little else is available. Sow seed directly 1cm deep from March to May, or plant divisions of existing clumps. Once established, it returns reliably year after year with virtually no maintenance. Pick young leaves regularly for the best flavour — older leaves become coarser and more acidic. Remove flower stalks promptly to prolong leaf production and prevent self-seeding. It grows well in sun or partial shade and tolerates poor soil, though it's more tender and productive in rich, moist conditions. A single plant will provide enough leaves for regular use. Sorrel contains oxalic acid, which gives it its characteristic tang — people with kidney issues should consume it in moderation. The classic French sorrel soup, made simply with butter, stock, and cream, is reason enough to grow this plant.
Plan where to grow Sorrel using our vegetable garden planner.
When to Sow Sorrel
Sow sorrel in March, April, May.
Time to Harvest Sorrel
Expect to harvest approximately 2 months after sowing.
Companion Plants
Expected Yield
Perennial — harvest from March to October each year. One of the earliest spring crops.
Growing Tips
Remove flower stalks to prolong leaf production
Common Problems with Sorrel
Slug damage on young leaves
The tender, succulent young leaves that appear in early spring are attractive to slugs, especially during mild, wet weather. Protect with organic slug pellets or copper barriers. Established plants produce leaves so prolifically that minor slug nibbling is rarely significant.
Self-seeding everywhere
If allowed to flower and set seed, sorrel self-sows freely and can become a nuisance. Cut off flower stalks as soon as they appear — this also redirects energy into producing more tender leaves. Unwanted seedlings are easily pulled up when small.
Leaves becoming coarse in summer
Older leaves become large, tough, and increasingly acidic in summer. Cut the whole plant back to 5cm above ground level in midsummer to stimulate a flush of fresh, tender new growth. Water well after cutting back and the plant will produce usable leaves within 2–3 weeks.
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Open PlannerMore Herbs
Sweet Basil
Ocimum basilicum
Sweet basil is the essential companion to tomatoes — both in the garden and in the kitchen. In UK conditions, it's best treated as a tender annual, started indoors from April and planted out only after all frost risk has passed in late May or June. It performs brilliantly on a sunny windowsill or in a greenhouse, but struggles outdoors in cool, wet summers. Pinch out growing tips regularly to encourage bushy growth and prevent it from flowering too quickly. Once basil flowers, the leaves lose their intensity. Harvest by cutting whole stems rather than picking individual leaves — this promotes fresh growth. 'Genovese' is the classic large-leaf Italian variety; 'Greek' basil forms a compact ball of tiny leaves that's more tolerant of cooler weather.
English Lavender
Lavandula angustifolia
English lavender is one of the most reliable and rewarding perennials for UK gardens. Its silvery foliage and purple flower spikes are irresistible to bees and butterflies, making it a pollinator magnet from June to August. It thrives in poor, well-drained soil — in fact, rich soil and heavy clay are its enemies, causing leggy growth and winter die-off. Plant it in the sunniest, most well-drained spot you have. The key to keeping lavender compact and productive is annual pruning: cut back hard after flowering, removing spent flower stems and about a third of the leafy growth, but never cut into bare wood. 'Hidcote' and 'Munstead' are the most popular UK varieties. Lavender hedging along allotment paths is both beautiful and functional — the scent helps deter deer and rabbits.
Mint
Mentha
Mint is one of the most vigorous herbs you can grow — which is both its greatest strength and its biggest challenge. Left unchecked in open ground, it will colonise entire beds via underground runners. The solution is simple: always grow mint in containers, or sink a large pot into the soil to contain its roots. Beyond this one caveat, mint is virtually indestructible. It thrives in partial shade and damp conditions that would stress most herbs. Harvest regularly by cutting whole stems, which encourages fresh bushy growth. There are dozens of varieties worth growing: spearmint for new potatoes and peas, peppermint for tea, apple mint for a milder flavour, and chocolate mint for a genuinely chocolatey undertone. Replace plants every 3–4 years when they become woody and less flavourful — simply dig up a section of runner and replant.
Rosemary
Salvia rosmarinus
Rosemary is a Mediterranean evergreen that has adapted brilliantly to UK gardens, shrugging off cold winters as long as it has good drainage. It's one of the most useful culinary herbs — essential for roast lamb, focaccia, roast potatoes, and infused oils. The plants develop into handsome woody shrubs over time, with some varieties reaching over a metre tall. 'Miss Jessopp's Upright' is the best variety for hedging; 'Prostratus' cascades over walls and raised bed edges. Rosemary flowers early in the year, providing vital nectar for bees emerging from hibernation in February and March. It's almost impossible to kill from neglect — overwatering and waterlogged soil are the main killers. Prune annually after flowering to prevent the plant becoming leggy and woody. Take softwood cuttings in summer for new plants — they root easily in gritty compost.